Guermassa, Ksar Ouled Soltane, Ksar Hadada – Old places, new stories

Today was another series of visits around the desert, this time crossing over into the Tatouine region. I was reluctant to leave the peace of the Sahara, but also ready for new sights. In a spate of modernisation, many mountain villages had been forced to quit their homes and to move into towns and cities, where there would be education, water, and electricity. Some astounding … Continue reading Guermassa, Ksar Ouled Soltane, Ksar Hadada – Old places, new stories

Campement Zmela : peace in the Sahara

We reached Campement Zmela late in the day, after rolling over dunes and bushes in the 4×4. We first pulled into Ksar Ghilane, where there was a little watering hole. Another group of tourists was bathing in it, they later did the Ksar Ghilane to Campement Zmela passage by quads. Campement Zmela is situated on the edge of the Sahara, with tents that are already … Continue reading Campement Zmela : peace in the Sahara

Douz, Matmata, Hotel Sidi Driss, Ksar Hallouf – Different ways of living

I woke up in Hotel 20 Mars in Douz, ate a breakfast of baguette and jams, and headed out to look for the animal market. My rendez-vous with Saghir was at 10am, and I still had some time. I knew that there was a market nearby, but upon some exploration, I determined that it was for fruits and vegetables, and some other household supplies. At … Continue reading Douz, Matmata, Hotel Sidi Driss, Ksar Hallouf – Different ways of living

Chebika, Tamerza, Mides, Chott El Jerid : Desert landscape

I’d hired a driver with Libre Espace Voyage for the next part of my journey – where I wanted to visit different villages in the dessert and also to get to Campement Zmela in the Sahara, which I couldn’t do without a 4×4. For three days and three nights, the price was 745TND for one person – around than 300 USD – including two dinners … Continue reading Chebika, Tamerza, Mides, Chott El Jerid : Desert landscape

Tozeur : Oasis town

“Tozeur, Tozeur”, the huge louage driver in the louage station in Sousse cried out haphazardly, and almost a little nonchalantly, waddling around his empty 9 seater. His large physical bearing and constant call were almost comical, and as I approached, he repeated, “Tozeur?” I nodded yes, and climbed into the van, glad for some shade from the burning sun. Slowly but surely, the seats filled … Continue reading Tozeur : Oasis town